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LAOAG AND BATAC |
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In 1818, the province of Ilocos was divided into two and the city of
LAOAG , two hours' drive north from Vigan, became the capital of Ilocos
Norte. In more recent years, Ilocos Norte has become associated in most
Filipino minds with former President Ferdinand Marcos. This was very
much his patch, and his son, Bong-Bong, and daughter, Imee, both of whom
have entered politics, are still popular in these parts. Marcos was born
south of Laoag in Sarrat, while the family seat was 15km southeast of
the city in Batac. There's little to see in Laoag itself, though it's
worth making time for St William's Cathedral, on FR Castro Avenue, which
dates back to 1650. Further east along FR Castro is Ermita Hill, which
has nice views across Laoag and out to the South China Sea. It's a
thirty-minute walk or you can take a jeepney from outside the cathedral.
In BATAC , you can visit the Marcos Mansion, which is full of the
dictator's old belongings; you can even see his refrigerated corpse,
although many believe it's nothing more than a wax model. The impressive
Batac Church, opposite the mansion, is where Imee was married with the
kind of pomp and ceremony rarely seen outside royal families. A few
kilometres southwest of Batac is the iconoclastic Paoay Chuch, built in
a style known as "earthquake baroque", with immense side supports for
its walls.
The bus station in Laoag is at the eastern end of Primo Lazar Avenue at
its junction with General Fidel Segundo Avenue. Jeepneys for Batac leave
from Jose Rizal Street in Laoag. Laoag isn't a prime tourist destination
and hotels are few and far between, but the new Hotel Tiffany (tel
077/770 3550; $10-15), on General Fidel Segundo Avenue, has small, clean
doubles with private shower. The Texicano Hotel (tel 077/722 0290;
$15-20), on Rizal Street, has bog-standard double rooms with air-con and
cable TV. For wholesome Filipino food , Barrio Fiesta on Manuel Nolasco
Street is good value. La Preciosa Restaurant on Rizal Street also does
cheap native dishes - reckon on P80 per head.
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